Lunch at Da Tonino

Of all Rome's wonderful restaurants, Bill and I keep finding ourselves going back to Da Tonino.

When we first arrived in Rome the weather was cool so we ate indoors by the open windows. But the temperature went up and stayed up and the dining action moved outdoors.

These days, at the stroke of noon, Ronnie, server for 24 years and Francesca, the owner, appear at their door to survey the waiting tables.

This is what Bill and I want to see -- an empty table. We say, "Posso? (May I?)", we get the nod and sit. All this lovely seating used to be parking.

In Italy, ordering the food in consultation with the server, is a serious business. I'll just mention here I've become partial to the rucola and pomodori (rocket and tomato) salad, written at bottom right.

A simple salad, a drink. Simple is best.

Insalata rucola e pomodori

Pasta Melanzane (with eggplant)

Pasta carbonara (with egg, pecorino cheese and guanciale (pig's cheek).

Ravioli stuffed with ricotta and spinach in sage butter.

Tonino does a lovely rabbit (cognilio -- can you remember how to pronounce it from our Augusto post? co-KNEE-lee-oh). A good word to learn.

Here's another test from our Augusto post: how do we ask for roast potatoes? Patate arrosto. That's not so hard.

Bill and I had been mispronouncing this bitter green: cicoria. We had been stressing the "or", so it sounded like Chick Corea: the jazz musician. The server at Augusto gently corrected us -- it's chi-KOR-ee-ah.

Today is Friday and the special at Tonino is cod (baccalà).

Bill had it last Friday and we made a point of returning today for another helping.

When I went inside to pay, I stuck my head into the kitchen and thanked the chef. Abbiamo mangiato bene, come sempre (We have eaten well, as always!)

Thank you Francesa! Long may you rule at Via Governo Vecchio, 18!

Monday is Lentil Day at Augusto

On any Monday in Rome you will probably find Bill and me at Augusto in Trastevere because Monday is lentil day.

Augusto has always had tables outside under large umbrellas, but during the pandemic they, like so many other Roman restaurants, expanded their outdoor seating.

On our first visits Bill and I sat under the umbrellas adjacent to the restaurant in the centre of Piazza de'Renzi.

On our third visit, in the midst of the spring heat-wave, staff suggested we might be more comfortable in the cool of the interior, within the thick stone walls. 

They were right. It was cooler indoors by the open door. 

And we had a good view of the comings and goings of customers and staff.

Sometimes we would start our lunch with the lentil (lenticchie -- len-TEE-kee-ay) soup.

Second course for us usually involved a meat course with vegetables. I always enjoy an insalata pomodori -- tomatoes in a light vinaigrette dressing.

If you don't know it let me introduce you to puntarelle (poon-ta-RAY-lay) -- a kind of chicory flower -- in an anchovy sauce -- light, fresh and delicious.

You will always find roasted coniglio (ko-KNEE-lee-o): rabbit, on the menu -- a tasty, white meat, with a surprising amount of eating on it.

All of the meats go well with a side of roast potatoes (patata al forno). Be careful though, they are very filling.

I can recommend the delicious slices of pork roast (arrosto di maiale -- my-AH-lay) in a light gravy.

But we come for the lentils and sausage (lenticchie con salsiccia -- sal-SEEK-ee-ah). These lentils have a very different seasoning from the soup. Once I had the soup followed by this dish. The server did an admirable job of concealing from me that she thought I was pazzo.

The food at Augusto fills Bill and I with an almost religious sense of joy.

On lentil day at Augusto heaven takes on material form to give us mortals a taste of the divine.

Vicolo de' Renzi, 15.  Bon appetito!

A Morning Stroll in Trastevere

The Ponte Sisto is a pedestrian bridge.

It is our favourite way to begin a walk through Trastevere.

Patios are being set up along the colourful, vined streets.

Workshop doorways are open for business. This one specializes in repairing vintage musical instruments.

Some of the street murals seem to be walking with us

past the richly textured walls.

During the pandemic the walls broke out in uncharming "tags". These are now being covered with paint

and plaster.

Trastevere is a wonderful place for a walk.

Backstreets are filled with local colour

of daily life in the district.

They open up into magical views of well-known sights, like Santa Maria in Trastevere

or Santa Maria delle Scalle,  framed in spring flowers.

The patios are almost ready for lunch-time diners

and last minute restaurant supplies have been droopped off.

Feeling hungry?

Trattoria Da Enzo is a favourite spot for us near Basilica di Santa Cecilia.

As we finish our morning stroll

we noticed these workman who will soon break for lunch.

After our own lunch John and I crossed Ponte Cestio to the Tiber Island and the City Centre beyond.