Friday, May 3, 2024

"The Floating World" at Palazzo Braschi

John and I were pleased to find a large and fascinating collection of Ukiyoe prints overlooking Piazza Navona at the Museum of Rome in Palazzo Braschi. 
"The Floating World" features elegant and sometimes racy images of urban elegance and wit set in Tokyo in the Edo period (1603-1858).
Elegant geishas and samurais are the main actors in the prints and they are given plenty of room to display their gorgeous apparel and their cultivated talents.
These young women, and and their attendant, collecting persimmons are by Kitagawa Utamaro (1803-1804),
as is this young samurai, with his female companions, hunting with falcons, (1804-1806).
Young women with an enormous snowball.
Another Utamaro print "Hanging out laundry on a roof," features a lovely detail of a cat, c. 1794.
Another Utamaro cat; at the feet of a courtesan, c 1808.
We didn't know Miyagawa Chōshun, so we were pleased to discover his images of street entertainers,
and street kids, c.1720.
Utamaro puppeteers in performance.
Fun that both puppets and puppeteers are visible.
Nice to be able to get up close to these meticulous prints.
Three of Kajiwara Genta Kagesue's portraits of actors from his series, Most Successful Kyōgen Plays, 1815.
"The actor Ichikawa Danjuro as Kan Shojo from the drama 'Sekai no hana Sugawara denju'"-- intense!
"The actor Nakamura Nakazo as Matsuomaru in the wagon-stopping scene from the drama Sugawara denju tenarai kagami," 1796.
We'll end on a corker: Utagawa Kuniyoshi's "The three vassals of Yorimitsu and demons," 1861. 
We love those demons! 

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The large, exciting exhibition continues until June 23, 2024.

Tuesday, April 30, 2024

Monday is Lentil Day at Da Augusto

It is Monday in Rome. 
Bill and I are crossing the Tiber to visit our favourite restaurant in Trastevere.
Da Augusto does not open for half an hour so we have time to explore the colourful streets and vicoli.
Bill is collecting graffiti and posters.
We love this local Superwoman.
We know that the magnificent Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere is just steps away, so we decide to drop in.
Here it is. The mosaics on the facade were put there in the 12th century. How magical is that!
At midday shafts of sunlight illuminate the visitors.
Italian cuisine is famous for performing miracles with the simplest of ingredients. It does not get simpler than sausage and lentils -- but the flavour!
On Sunday an enthusiast of Italian "slow food" told me about vignarola (vee-nya-ROL-a): fava beans, artichokes and peas. Our server at Augusto told us they had it on the menu as the ingredients were all in season.
Also in season is puntarelle: an endive in anchovy dressing.
You see why Mondays in Rome find us at Augusto.
"Sono felice" means "I'm happy" in Italian. Sono felice!
Augusto serves their tiramisu by the slice. It is delicious.
We stepped blinking into the sun, and slipped down the shady Vicolo de'Renzi toward Via del Moro,
the bustling Piazza Trilussa, and home.

Friday, April 26, 2024

Bill's 79th Birthday in Rome

Bill and I arrived in Rome this year in time to go to lunch but we were too exhausted to enjoy it properly.
So the next day we went to Pizzeria Montecarlo for something light and easy.
The margarita pizzas did not let us down. As we munched through them we could feel our jet-lag easing.
The next day found us ready for a birthday feast at Gino al Parliamento. That's Fabrizio, one of the owners, in the blue shirt, welcoming the diners.
I had the ravioli stuffed with ricotta and spinach, delicious in a sauce of butter and sage.
Bill had spaghetti in artichoke (carciofi) sauce, sprinkled with deep-fried artichoke crumble. The combination reminded me of two Roman staples: Carciofi alla Romana (boiled) and Carciofi alla Giudia (deep-fried).
We shared a half litre of the house red which went down so easily that we were forced to order a second carafe.
I continued our local theme with Pollo alla Romano -- chicken cooked with peppers.
Bill had roasted rabbit. The flavours of the two meats are surprisingly similar.
Contentment in Rome.
Happy 79th birthday, Bill!
Everyone was ending with strawberries. I did too.
Bill wanted to end on a richer note. You can never go wrong in Italy with a serving of tiramisu.
A birthday kiss for Bill from Carla, the other owner.

Roman warmth had worked its magic once more. Bill stepped out into the street with a light step.