B. R. Ammazzate in Rome

When Bill and I are walking in Rome we always keep an eye out for graffiti by A. R. Ammazzate.

I feel a spark when I see one of his drawings of a Euro bill,

or a drawing of a name. Note the small-case "t".

Or one of his phrases: Non credo. "I don't believe."

Or one of his signatures -- the "t"s like crosses. When we posted his work in 2017, his nephew wrote and told me the artist's name is Enzo Romano and that he lives in Palermo.

One morning Bill and I were climbing Via Rasella to get to the Barberini and I noticed an Ammazzate head.

And another head a few steps on.

So Ammazzate was here before us and left us this trace.

Two Ammazzate faces, in context, placed at eye level.

Looks like someone tried to erase this one and gave up.

Because the one on the right is undisturbed.

Continuing up Via Rassela, I've not seen an Ammazzate like this one before.

Here is the face.

Love at first sight with this face, further up the hill.

Right at the top of the Rasella. We're at the museum.

We'll leave you with this lovely drawing from Via del Gesù,

and what we think of as an Archaic Smile, found on Via del Vaccaro, near Santi Apostoli.

* * * *

More Ammazzate: 

Link to our first Ammazzate post, 2017.

 

Bill Viola in Rome

The recently renovated 17th century Palazzo Bonaparte situated in Piazza Venezia is now dedicated to art and sculpture.

The palace was bought by Letizia Bonaparte, Napoleon's mother in 1730.

John and I spent an enchanted morning in the palace in June looking at Icons of Light: a retrospective of works by video artist Bill Viola.

Entering we encountered a copy of a statue of Napoleon Bonaparte as Mars the Peacemaker by Canova.

Mr. Viola has magic in his videos. In Observance, 2022, he presents a line of mourners (?) viewing something disturbing: a victim of violence, a perpetrator?

In The Greeting, 1995, Viola interprets Pontormo's Visitation: a painting of Mary, pregnant with Christ meeting Anne, pregnant with John the Baptist.

In Ascension,  2000,

the artist  films a man plunging into water

and then rising up in a kind of apotheosis -- all in extreme slow-motion.

Water Portraits presents three figures submerged dangerously under water.

John took a seat in a room with four large video screens. Let's look over his shoulder at two of four Maryrs.

Martyr: Fire The martyr sits in a chair 

while he is enveloped in flames.

Martyr: Water

The martyr is pulled up by the feet

through a torrent of water.

The only other light in the rooms is the gentle illumination on the decorative frescoes.

On the opposite wall we see the Martyr: Earth.

The film is shown in reverse so the dirt is seen to fall upwards, freeing the figure.

It was stunning to re-enter the brightness of Piazza Venezia with the Vittoriano framed in the Bonaparte entrance.

Borromini in Rome

When you are walking in Rome on Via del Governo Vecchio you may look up and see this delightful clock tower

by Francesco Borromini: a genius of the Roman Baroque.

The clock tower is around the back of this building, called the Oratorio. The scalloped front is very Borromini -- he didn't do flat walls, as you will see.

Closer look at the central front door of the Oratorio. Notice there is lots of play between elements coming forward and elements dropping back. The details are beautiful.

Across town and up the Quirinal Hill is Borromini's San Carlo alla Quattro Fontane (called affectionately: San Carlino): same play of volumes and beautiful details.

San Carlino: door to the sacristy. The subtlety of the decorations is great fun.

Borromini liked to show off his command of geometry.

Notice San Carlino lacks flat walls. Instead it has pillars and cornices. Borromini did not like to be bored.

Inside San Carlino, looking toward the entrance.

Even the hallways in San Carlino are memorable.

Now the sacristy, this room, with its beautiful ceiling used to be the dining room for the monks.

Across town again, to Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza (St Ivo of Wisdom): Borromini's masterpiece. This is the view of the courtyard from the street. 

The walls culminate in a dazzling dome,

from a six sided floor plan. It is a good place to spend Sunday morning in Rome.

Find St Ivo midway between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. The hours are literally carved in stone outside: Sundays: open 9 a.m. to 12. Mass at 10 a.m.

One last masterpiece. Do you remember the square staircase Bernini designed for Palazzo Barberini? Borromini designed this staircase at the other end of the building.

A miracle of talent and perfect taste. Bill and I became very interested in Borromini on this trip. We look forward to visiting all his sites again soon.