Monday, March 16, 2026

Accademia Museum, Venice 2025

The Accademia Museum on the Grand Canal in Venice is one of the best art museums in the world.
It has its own vaporetto stop.
Bill and I were delighted by Paolo Veneziano's Baptism of Christ (Santa Chiara Polyptych), 1340.
When I saw this Jacobello del Fiore I thought of Oscar Wilde: "I never travel without my diary. One should always have something sensational to read in the train."
I was surprised by the modernity of this smokey Madonna by Lorenzo Veneziano (from a 14th century Annunciation)  
The museum has at least two dozen paintings of the Madonna and Child by Giovanni Bellini. This 1487 canvas is my current favourite.
There is something mysterious and alluring in Carpaccio's Dream of St Ursula, late 15th century.
Titain painted this Pieta in 1576 to hang over his tomb. It is his last painting.
Across the room Bill took this detail of the angel Gabriel from a 1587 Veronese Annunciation.
On the other half of the painting we find the Virgin.
The full canvas here.
Nearby is Veronese's Feast in the House of Levi, 1573. 
The woman who was seated on the right has risen to look at the dog in the centre of the canvas.
The dog is looking at a cat under the dinner table.
The Accademia's rooms flow nicely from one to another.
Wonders abound -- walk through a door, turn around and find Titian's Presentation of the Virgin at the Temple, 1538.
Durer sketched this Venetian local in a visit to the city in 1508. It was included in a temporary exhibition called Corpi Moderni (Modern Bodies), 

Saturday, March 14, 2026

A Trip Down the Grand Canal, 2025

Most people's experience of Venice begins with a vaporetto (ferry) ride from the train station to St Mark's Square.
It is thrilling to be out on the water, and you never know what strange types you will meet. 
Bill and my first ferry ride down the Grand Canal is burned into our memories.
My favourite building, the Ca d'Oro, is a fine museum.
Side canals branch out from the main canal, hinting at the wonders beyond.
The canal is lined by mooring poles where boats and gondolas can tie up.
The famous Rialto bridge is about halfway down the canal.
Here's an intimate building: a hotel? I love the Islamic influence in the shapes of the windows.
The Islamic/Arabic influence is everywhere in Venice.
On the ferry you can spot the local Venetians as they are rarely looking out the windows.
They prefer each other's company, no doubt for local gossip.
Boats of all kinds, public and private, fill the waterway.
We found lots and lots of gondolas this year (2025).
One day we got off at the Accademia bridge to visit the Accademia Gallery: a Venice must-see.
As noon approaches all creatures start to think about lunch.
St Mark's Square and the Palazzo Ducale looking rocked by the rough waters. Is it really sinking into the sea?
Now the Canal widens into the lagoon. Change boats. The island of San Giorgio Maggiore is only a short ride away.

Sunday, March 8, 2026

San Lorenzo Quarter, Naples

We can't leave our memories of Naples without a stroll through the astonishing San Lorenzo Quarter.
Unlike the Spanish Quarter, it has few tourists, though the teeming Via Tribunali is just a few blocks away.
Streets are narrow
and dense with residential dwellings.
The Neapolitan sun with its sharp contrasts,
dramatizes the textures of the centuries old walls.
You will find family life here, not other tourists.
As photographers, Bill and I found much to treasure.
This is a poster for the nearby Neapolitan Sacred Art shop.
It is possible that San Lorenzo has more street shrines than any other area of Naples. Bill has a large shrine above
and at eye level a small shrine depicting the Holy Souls in Purgatory roasting in their purifying flames.
The Quarter is dotted with small, independant workshops,
with their street doors welcomingly open.
We watched as locals festooned the streets for the upcoming Serie A soccer championship.
Much to fall in love with in the San Lorenzo Quarter.
A barber pole painted on this glass shop front put diagonal lines on the customer within who had taken off his shirt to brush himself off. Thank you, Photo Gods!
The busy Via Duomo caught us up once more in the thrilling noise and crush of Naples once again.

Tuesday, March 3, 2026

Some Neapolitan Shops

Dispaccio is Naples' best art book store (33 via Luigi Settembrini, near MADRE, the contemporary art museum).
Ivano Bove opened the shop in 2025. He has a stunning collection and he knows his books.
Happily, Dispaccio was minutes from our apartment.
We dropped in every evening, and came home with great books and good local sightseeing suggestions.
Just down the street from Dispaccio we found this elegant dog on guard in front of his master's fabric shop.
Bill and I keep our hair short so our cuts need attention every three weeks.
We like our barber shops cheap and cheerful. Bill is getting exactly the haircut he asked for at this via del Zita shop.
And he looks terrific springing out of the chair.
Another Neapolitan barber shop featured the heads of soccer players: anyone for a Dybala?
On the Spaccanapoli at via San Gregorio Armeno, we found a Tombola shop. Tombola, similar to our bingo, is a popular Neapolitan Christmas game.
Nearby, this pop up shop was selling soccer merch for the upcoming Serie A championship (which Naples won).
Maradona is still the ultimate Neapolitan soccer hero. Maradona merchandise is everywhere.
I had not known that I needed Elizabeth II and Pope Francis action figures until I visited Naples. Now I know.
We were charmed by the antiques at the Neapolitan Sacred Art shop in the San Lorenzo Quarter.
Look at this amazing shop window!
Steps away was this old-fashioned print shop.
At the end of the day we always made our way home past a thicket of wedding shops around the Duomo.