Rome favourite bar

Bill and I have regular habits. We try to reserve our table at the popular bar il Piccolo (the Little One) for 7 pm.

At this time the April sun is coming straight down Via del Governo Vecchio -- straight into our eyes.

Bill and I have been coming to il Piccolo for more than 10 years. Italians appreciate return customers.

We've seen the staff change but the vibe, which is hip, warm, and friendly, has not changed.

The servers are wine enthusiasts and customer care can involve detailed discussion of the wine list.

Service is brisk.

Bill and I always order the same thing: a bottle of prosecco, or more often, an unfiltered varient, because the staff never tire of trying and recommending new things.

A Toronto friend asked me for What'sApp photos to distract her from her chronic pain. I sent this picture of the guy at the next table. She texted back: "Yes. More like this please."

Via del Governo Vecchio runs west then north from the bottom of Piazza Navona: a main artery in central Rome.

It is always busy.

This makes for reliably good people watching.

Every il Piccolo visit has a different crowd, a different feel.

Tonight, local artist Federico Ruxo, asked me to photograph him with two buddies -- all three are servers at the bar.

Bill caught this interesting group who had pushed several tables together. In town for a conference?

Il Piccolo is also a place where a solitary visitor can feel comfortable, unhurried, included.

The gentleman on the left sat alone with his drink for a long time. Then a friend appeared.

We'll leave them all under the attentive eye of Carlo, another of il Piccolo's fine servers.

Rome favourite pizza

Bill and I always do our best to arrive at pizzeria La Montecarlo sharp at the stroke of noon.

This way we can snag a table on the empty patio.

To wash your hands you will walk past the cashier. That's the very busy kitchen behind.

The pizzaiola's are always busy creating the material conditions for the miracles that follow.

Miracle arriving now on its silver tray. Patio is filling up.

A volcanic, cheesy, delicious Margherita pizza -- my fave.

Bill likes the Napoletana, which is a margherita with a sprinkling of anchovies.

Bill eats his pizza with a knife and fork. I cut mine in half, fold it over and devour.

By the time our pizza's arrive that patio is full.

La Montecarlo also serves excellent traditional pastas. Bill's cacio e pepe could feed two hungry college students.

This year we started following our pizza course with a shared mixed salad of tomatoes,

lettuce, radicchio, arugula and shredded carrot. 

Ask for an insalata mista.

Another volcanic Margherita.

Over the years we've gotten to know Mentor, one of the Montecarlo servers. Here is Mentor and me in 2013. 

Here we are in 2026. We've both getting older.

The Vicolo staff are friendly and accommodating, the customers relaxed,

the passersby interesting, the food superb. It all adds up to our favourite pizzaria in Rome.

Bill and John Get Married

 Bill and I got married at Toronto City Hall on Monday, October 5th. We have already been together for 41 years.

A friend called this a very long engagement.

Lisa Roosen-Runge took the nice pictures. Bill's 81, I'm 71.

P. O. Reilly was a charming and authorative officiant.

She asked us to take each other by our right hands while she read the words of the ceremony.

"...I now pronounce you married."

No words.

Happiness.

Lisa Roosen-Runge and Trevor Hughes, our witnesses, friends of more than 40 years.

We stand before you now, an old married couple of 41 years, and simultaneously as the blushing newlyweds.

And so to lunch!

Agnès Varda at Villa Medici, Rome

When Bill and I visit Rome we always check out the latest show at the Villa Medici. 

This spring they are showing photographs and snippets of films by Agnès Varda. (Portrait of Giulietta Masina, 1956).

Varda began her career as a photographer. This 1949 self-portrait precedes what would become her signature 'look'.

Her first card, 1950.

An example of her 1950s magazine work.

Visitor to the gallery with wall sized 1956 self-portrait.

Letter to Varda from Alexander Calder, 1957.

1959 self-portrait at the Accademia museum in Venice with Gentile Bellini painting.

1960 photograph at the Trevi Fountain in Rome.

Beneath snippets of her 1962 masterwork, Cléo de 5 a 7, a wall sized photo of the director demonstrating how she wanted the actor to descend the stairs.

Italian poster: Cleo dalle 5 alle 7.

This photograph 'Angel on rue de Trubigo, January 1984' has a 50s feel to it. 

Who knew Varga was also a sculptor? Her cat, Nini, 2019