Rome favourite pizza

Bill and I always do our best to arrive at pizzeria La Montecarlo sharp at the stroke of noon.

This way we can snag a table on the empty patio.

To wash my hands I walk past the cashier. That's the very busy kitchen behind.

The pizzaiola's are always busy creating the material conditions for the miracles that follow.

Miracle arriving now on its silver tray. Patio is filling up.

A volcanic, cheesy, delicious Margherita pizza -- my fave.

Bill likes the Napoletana, which is a margherita with a sprinkling of anchovies.

Bill eats his pizza with a knife and fork. I cut mine in half, fold it over and devour.

By the time our pizza's arrive that patio is full.

La Montecarlo also serves excellent traditional pastas. Bill's cacio e pepe could feed two hungry college students.

This year we started following our pizza course with a shared mixed salad of tomatoes,

lettuce, radicchio, arugula and shredded carrot. 

Ask for an insalata mista.

Another volcanic Margherita.

Over the years we've gotten to know Mentor, one of the Montecarlo servers. Here is Mentor and me in 2013. 

Here we are in 2026. We've both getting older.

The Vicolo Savelli offers excellent people watching:

staff, customers and passersby: all are interesting.

Bill and John Get Married

 Bill and I got married at Toronto City Hall on Monday, October 5th. We have already been together for 41 years.

A friend called this a very long engagement.

Lisa Roosen-Runge took the nice pictures. Bill's 81, I'm 71.

P. O. Reilly was a charming and authorative officiant.

She asked us to take each other by our right hands while she read the words of the ceremony.

"...I now pronounce you married."

No words.

Happiness.

Lisa Roosen-Runge and Trevor Hughes, our witnesses, friends of more than 40 years.

We stand before you now as an old married couple and simultaneously as the blushing newlyweds.

And so to lunch!

Agnès Varda at Villa Medici, Rome

When Bill and I visit Rome we always check out the latest show at the Villa Medici. 

This spring they are showing photographs and snippets of films by Agnès Varda. (Portrait of Giulietta Masina, 1956).

Varda began her career as a photographer. This 1949 self-portrait precedes what would become her signature 'look'.

Her first card, 1950.

An example of her 1950s magazine work.

Visitor to the gallery with wall sized 1956 self-portrait.

Letter to Varda from Alexander Calder, 1957.

1959 self-portrait at the Accademia museum in Venice with Gentile Bellini painting.

1960 photograph at the Trevi Fountain in Rome.

Beneath snippets of her 1962 masterwork, Cléo de 5 a 7, a wall sized photo of the director demonstrating how she wanted the actor to descend the stairs.

Italian poster: Cleo dalle 5 alle 7.

This photograph 'Angel on rue de Trubigo, January 1984' has a 50s feel to it. 

Who knew Varga was also a sculptor? Her cat, Nini, 2019

Carpaccio and a Greek Orthodox church, Venice 2025

Bill and I discovered the Castello neighbourhood of Venice on this trip. It is the large area north of the busy St Marks Square. It is quiet and full of wonders.

One morning when we crossed the Ponte de la Comenda

we had no idea we were about to find the Scuola Dalmata with it's treasure trove of Carpaccio masterpieces.

The lower space is small and low ceilinged with an arched door leading to a second floor.

We were astounded to see Carpaccio's Saint George and the Dragon (1516) which we had only ever seen in art books

We were delighted by Saint Jerome presenting his lion to the terrified monks. Jerome is the one who took a thorn from a lion's foot and got a lifelong friend.

Carpaccio's Vision of Saint Augustine with its loyal little dog was another one we knew only from books.

I led the way to the upper floor

where we found a lush room

with a gilded wooden altarpiece: St George again,

and this beautiful metal plaque with light gently raking across the surface.

 We admired the view of the canal. We had seen a bell tower earlier so we knew there would be a church.

We found the bell tower beside the Church of San Gregorio dei Greci (St George the Greek).

We walked around the church before going in.

The interior is stunning with tightly placed Greek icons and ample light through large windows.

The churches interior is small but rich in colour.

We looked for a long time. We had the church to ourselves, ten minutes from the tumult of St Mark's Square.

Don't miss the amazing Museum of Icons next door. They have Greek Orthodox icons from the 14th to 17th centuries. No photos, but we bought dozens of postcards.