Agnès Varda at Villa Medici, Rome

When Bill and I visit Rome we always check out the latest show at the Villa Medici. 

This spring they are showing photographs and snippets of films by Agnès Varda. (Portrait of Giulietta Masina, 1956).

Varda began her career as a photographer. This 1949 self-portrait precedes what would become her signature 'look'.

Her first card, 1950.

An example of her 1950s magazine work.

Visitor to the gallery with wall sized 1956 self-portrait.

Letter to Varga from Alexander Calder, 1957.

1959 self-portrait at the Accademia museum in Venice with Gentile Bellini painting.

1960 photograph at the Trevi Fountain in Rome.

Beneath snippets of her 1962 masterwork, Cléo de 5 a 7, a wall sized photo of the director demonstrating how she wanted the actor to descend the stairs.

Italian poster: Cleo dalle 5 alle 7.

This photograph 'Angel on rue de Trubigo, January 1984' has a 50s feel to it. 

Who knew Varga was also a sculptor? Her cat, Nini, 2019

Carpaccio and a Greek Orthodox church, Venice 2025

Bill and I discovered the Castello neighbourhood of Venice on this trip. It is the large area north of the busy St Marks Square. It is quiet and full of wonders.

One morning when we crossed the Ponte de la Comenda

we had no idea we were about to find the Scuola Dalmata with it's treasure trove of Carpaccio masterpieces.

The lower space is small and low ceilinged with an arched door leading to a second floor.

We were astounded to see Carpaccio's Saint George and the Dragon (1516) which we had only ever seen in art books

We were delighted by Saint Jerome presenting his lion to the terrified monks. Jerome is the one who took a thorn from a lion's foot and got a lifelong friend.

Carpaccio's Vision of Saint Augustine with its loyal little dog was another one we knew only from books.

I led the way to the upper floor

where we found a lush room

with a gilded wooden altarpiece: St George again,

and this beautiful metal plaque with light gently raking across the surface.

 We admired the view of the canal. We had seen a bell tower earlier so we knew there would be a church.

We found the bell tower beside the Church of San Gregorio dei Greci (St George the Greek).

We walked around the church before going in.

The interior is stunning with tightly placed Greek icons and ample light through large windows.

The churches interior is small but rich in colour.

We looked for a long time. We had the church to ourselves, ten minutes from the tumult of St Mark's Square.

Don't miss the amazing Museum of Icons next door. They have Greek Orthodox icons from the 14th to 17th centuries. No photos, but we bought dozens of postcards.

Church of San Zaccaria, Venice, 2025

Bill and I stepped out of the quirky Correr Museum and gazed down the piazza toward the magnificent Basilica of San Marco. But that was not our goal today.

A ten minute walk from the chaos of St Mark's Square is a quiet piazza in front of the Church of San Zaccaria.

Let's go have a look at the treasures inside.

On the left wall of the nave is Giovanni Bellini's Virgin and Child with Four Saints, 1505, one of his finest paintings. 

It is possible to have it all to yourself.

On the opposite wall an overwhelming collage of 17th and 18th century paintings.

Try to make time to visit the chapels and the crypt.

You will see how the Golden Chapel got its name. We found this gorgeous altarpiece in restoration.

These Gothic altarpieces

reward close attention.

Be sure to look down at the 12th century mosaic floors.

Here's a closer look.

We walked back through St Mark's Square and past the boutiques beyond. I had been thinking about a Venetian makeover and was thrilled to find my new signature outfit.

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, 2025

The Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari is one of Venice's most beautiful churches. 

We call it the Frari. This front entrance is no longer used.

We now enter through this side entrance.

Down near the original entrance Bill lit a candle for a recently departed friend.

Our candle, among others, in front of the Altar of St Anthony of Padua (Giacomo Di Caterino, 1450).

A view down the nave of the church.

Walking toward the altar we pass through the Wooden Choir, built by Marco and Francesco Cozzi in 1468.

Titian's Assumption, 1518, is one of his masterpieces and one of the most famous paintings in Venice.

It really is stupendous. We took a seat in the pews and looked at it in wonder for a long time.

Taking a break from the Titian I liked this group of folding chairs grouped out of the way under an unlabelled painting.

Crucifixion painted in the 13th century.

To the left of the Assumption we found this beautiful triptych of St. Mark enthroned with Saints by Vivarini, an artist we didn't know, 1474.

Donatello sculpted this St John the Baptist in 1438.

A small, but compelling, decoration near the main altar.

This Giovanni Bellini Madonna with Child and Saints from 1488 is one of the Frari's other masterpieces.

We're back in the front of the church to have a better look at the other major Titian in the church. It is at the bottom right in this photo.

It is called the Madonna di Ca'Pesaro, 1526.