Neapolitan Courtyards

The historic centre of Naples is densely populated.

and has been for 3,000 years. The locals adapted by designing their apartment blocks with central courtyards.

In the grandest buildings the courtyards are gated like this one on Via Foria near the Botanical Gardens.

But most are open like this one off the Spaccanapoli.

This courtyard of shops is off the street of Christmas creches (via San Gregorio Armeno).

Here is a private courtyard glimpsed from the same street.

This elegant courtyard is in the San Lorenzo Quarter.

John and I returned to this neighbourhood often. San Lorenzo felt like a personal discovery.

The streets are narrow,

but regularly open onto light-filled courtyards.

Laundry and parked motorbikes are standard features. Notice the exit onto a parallel street in the distance.

Some courtyards are more colourful than others.

But every courtyard is unique and always worth a look.

San Lorenzo Maggiore, Naples

Steps away from the tumult of the street of the Christmas creches I found my favourite church in Naples.

Bill pushed open a door and we stepped into the Gothic silence of the nave of San Lorenzo Maggiore.

On our way to the altar we looked at the side chapels.

We found four martyrs with the instruments of their deaths.

Christ's mother in her guise as the Queen of Heaven.

San Lorenzo has an ambulatory allowing a semi-circular walk behind the altar. Don't miss it.

Pass this astonishing tomb.

Drink in the Gothic arches.

Find wonderful little side chapels. 

Who is this saint or martyr with his Memento Mori?

And who is both laid to rest and raised up?

Bill and I emerged from the ambulatory as the light from the high windows illuminated these devotional figures.

More side chapels, on our way out -- satisfying placement!

Fun to find dispirit elements abutting so charmingly. At first we thought the central temple was on fire

but a closer look reveals a book bound in pink on a pink cushion. Philip Guston pinks.

Joseph and an ox at the Nativity share a mood.

On our way out, these church ladies called out to us. They had prayer cards for sale. I found some for St. Anthony, a saint from my childhood. These I bought.

Cloister of Santa Chiara, Naples

"Look Bill, Santa Chiara has got some Gentileschis!"

"We'll definitely check that out."

The cloister of Santa Chiara is a large square space bounded on all four sides by graceful arcades.

Be sure to look up as the arches are astonishing.

In the central courtyard the orange trees were bearing fruit.

The central courtyard is meditative, with elegant walkways,

fountains, and beautifully maintained greenery.

People visit the cloister of S Chiara for the Majolica tiles.

Even the seating is tiled in elegant designs.

Here's an absorbing detail on the back of one of the seats.

Nearby this fountain has a relaxing Arabic feel.

How old is this twisted tree?

John decided to document the wall frescos. I particularly like this saint being visited by angels.

The door to the bookstore and gift shop also leads to an art gallery filled with religious sculpture.

It is always interesting to find human figures like these two lads on a tour near the frescoes.

As it turned out the church had only one Gentileschi -- a portrait of The Magdalene. painted before 1635. It was damaged in that explosion in the Bay of Beirut in 2020.

It has now been restored and is being shown in Naples for the first time in 400 years. 

Cloister of San Gregorio Armeno

The cloister of San Gregorio Armeno was one of Bill and my best discoveries in Naples.

One day we noticed the entrance to a monastary. We had no idea what we would find at the top of the stairs.

It sure was beautiful.

We went in and paid five euros for entrance to the cloister of what turned out to be a very active monastery of nuns.

It was filled with mature trees, shrubs and bushes.

The guide we picked up identified a 19th century sculpture group attributed to Matteo Bottiglieri:

Meeting of Christ with the Samaritan woman at the well.

There were benches along the walls of the open space. I thought this plant looked very well cared for.

The Salotto della Badessa (salon of the Abbess)

has amazing 18 century decoration.

Only a week before I had lamented the lack of a bench in a green space in the densely populated centre of Naples. Now I had found one, not 15 minutes from our apartment.

From our bench the garden was serene and quiet. Contemplation welcomed.

Just off the cloister is a refectory. One of the sisters was organizing the many pockets in her habit.

What a nice room for a communal meal under an interesting fresco!

Just outside the walls we imagined the rush and noise of central Naples,

while inside it was a little slice of heaven,

 immaculately tended by the invisible sisters.