Parisians

People watching is an institution in Paris. Bill and I have been strolling the streets for the past five days. Come along and have a look for yourself. By the way, the last few days have been perfect summer weather -- clear skies, heat and a cool breeze -- let's go...

La Mosque de Paris

It was a warm, clear Spring day when John and I visited the Paris Mosque in the 5th arrondissement. Its a gorgeous, exotic jewel built by Moroccan craftsmen in the early 20th century.

We felt a serene calm immediately on entering the building.

For an entry fee of 3 euros visitors are free to enter the beautifully tiled cloisters.

Of course only worshippers are allowed into the prayer room but it is possible to peek into its interior from the entrance doorway.

John loved the wonderful relationship between this simple chair and the colourful tilework.

 I loved the classic, sunken, garden with its water features

and the beautifully detailed side rooms. What a treat to find in the centre of the City of Light!

Moroccan tearoom

At the south-east corner of the Mosque de Paris at Rues Georges Desplas and Daubenton John and I found the entrance to the tearoom and hammam (steam baths).

We immediately entered a calm, exotic world of pleasure.

The entrances to the hammam, and the display of sweets to be eaten with mint tea, lie just within the door.

Visitors can relax in the canopied, sunken garden 

or the beautifully appointed tearoom. Be sure to enter to take tea or just to peek at the interiors. Men and women can enjoy the steam baths and even a massage on different days. Just check times and days before visiting.

Pakistani Haircut

This is quite long hair for me. I have had great haircuts in Turkey and I heard that Paris has some cool Turkish, African and South Asian barbershops in the Passage du Prado and I wanted to try one of them.

 The passages of Paris are Victorian shopping arcades. The Passage du Prado is in the 2nd arrondissement.

I liked the look of the shop called Pakwatan and some of the barbers looked free so we walked in and were made very welcome. Wikipedia says the word "Pak Watan" is a "national personification and a term of endearment for Pakistan".

I was quite nervous with my French. At one point my barber asked me if my hair was short enough. I wanted him to cut it shorter and said, moins court, which means "less short". This, rightly, confused him, but another barber spoke English and  it all came out right in the end.

I love the cut that I got and it only cost seven euros! I hope to go back again before coming home.

Place des Vosges

For those of you who are unfamiliar with this famous landmark of Paris, let's take a tour of the square with its classic architecture, arcades and its gardens. Henri IV commissioned its construction in 1602 and it was finally opened in 1612. Here we see the southerly entrance to the square and its gardens.

The garden is in the classic French style using gravel paths, grass lawns, a centerpiece of horse-chestnuts, surrounded by alleys of pruned trees and conifers. 

Beautiful fountains add sound and fascination to the design 

and  benches in the shade of the alleys of pruned trees offer a place for peaceful contemplation.

An equestrian statue of King Louis XIII is the garden's centerpiece. The Place des Vosges has always attracted prestigious residents, like Victor Hugo and, now, Issey Miyake. John and I are thrilled to be living next door for the month of May.

Sweet!

A few steps from our apartment in Paris is a sweet shop called Gerard Mulot. Yesterday we saw this cake in the window. The icing looks like it was done by Gustav Klimpt. I've never seen a more beautiful cake for 50 euros.

Arrival in Paris

After a safe and reasonably comfortable trip to Paris, John and I made our way to the Marais neighbourhood to our home for the coming month of May, the apartment of our friends, Bruno and Julia Daro. We were given a warm reception and a quick instruction on all the special details of their beautiful pied-a-terre before they headed off to Rome.

Here's the view of the rooftops of the City of Light from the hallway window as we entered their apartment. Thats the rooftop of the Centre Pompidou in the distance on the right.

The apartment is situated just around the corner from the famous Marais landmark, the Place des Vosges, that elegant square commissioned by Henri IV in 1605. How's that for a classy neighbourhood! Does this mean we've truly "arrived"?

We made a quick stroll through the gardens of the square and then headed back into the Marais in search of some lunch! Thank you so much, Dear Daros, for making this visit to Paris so special! It really is a dream come true!

New P. J. Harvey

P. J. Harvey's new record Let England Shake has been in high rotation at our house for the past few weeks. You can read about it and hear the whole thing on her website (click on "film"), but we didn't want you to miss these two songs.

In The Words That Maketh Murder, it's fun to hear Harvey singing this powerful song with her autoharp and with that wonderful look in her eyes. When the rhythm changes half way through it makes Bill and I want to jump up and down.

The Last Living Rose, starts with an English cliché,

     "Goddamn Europeans!

     Take me back to

     Beautiful England..."

And becomes an anthem.

     "Let me walk

     Through the stinking alleys..."

Historic Ruins Near Fort York

The ongoing excavations for the Library District Condominiums on the old Railroad lands have been delayed by the predicted discovery of the foundations of a huge, cruciform engine house for the Grand Trunk Railway (1850's).

Bill and I saw the archeological dig in progress as we were cycling over the Bathurst Bridge this afternoon. Last year the remains of an early wharf for the Town of York (Toronto) was found during condominium excavations on the other side of the bridge.

Archeologists were taking great care digging out the brickworks with shovels.

Here is a detail of one of the 19th century walls. If you love history, you'll find that the Bathurst Bridge, over the railway lands, provides an ideal balcony view of the work, while it remains visible.

Taurus Party

Bill and I had a party today for friends born in the House of Taurus. It was lovely and we are remembering it in tranquility.

Am I the only person who likes washing-up after a party and then feels the virtue of the dishes drying in the rack.

Then the sun came out tonight after a day of snow and high wind and rain,

and beautiful clouds herded past our balcony. Click image to expand.

On the couch with Maurizio Cattelan

  I got some library books this week on artist Maurizio Cattelan and had a good look at them yesterday afternoon while Bill was napping.

Yale University Press published Franklin Sirmans' book Maurizio Cattelan: Is There Life Before Death? 

I took a close-up of the title page and the camera set the white value to neutral gray. I'm aware that light meters do that but have forgotten the advice that goes with it. They say one should point the camera at something neutral gray when setting the level. Here's what happens when you don't.

I love this set of sculptures carved to represent shroud-draped life-sized bodies. All, 2007 (white Carrara marble). I find them very moving. I'd love to see Ydessa Hendeles buy it and bring it to Toronto.

I love this, too. It's so silly, it makes me smile. Untitled, 2008 (boots and pepper plants).

I'd love to see this for real. It's amazing. Untitled, 2007 (taxidermied horse).

The library also had Phaidon Press' book on Cattelan. It's so tiny. Usually the Phaidon books are a foot square.

Nice Italian pharmacy and Bar signs, but is this a Cattelan photo, or installation, or both? I can't find any information in the book, not even a title.

Nice illustration! 4 Bananas by Erwin Wurm (please click to enlarge). Permanent Food is a magazine that Cattelan edited with Paola Manfrin. On the right are some page spreads. Bill's up and doing Paris research at the computer.

I love these tiny elevator doors that Cattelan had installed in a gallery in Yokohama. Untitled, 2001, in two parts (stainless steel, composition wood, electric motor, electric light, electric bell, computer).