Friday, February 6, 2026

San Lorenzo Maggiore, Naples

Steps away from the tumult of the street of the Christmas creches I found my favourite church in Naples.
Bill pushed open a door and we stepped into the Gothic silence of the nave of San Lorenzo Maggiore.
On our way to the altar we looked at the side chapels.
We found four martyrs with the instruments of their deaths.
Christ's mother in her guise as the Queen of Heaven.
San Lorenzo has an ambulatory allowing a semi-circular walk behind the altar. Don't miss it.

Pass this astonishing tomb.
Drink in the Gothic arches.
Find wonderful little side chapels. 
Who is this saint or martyr with his Memento Mori?
And who is both laid to rest and raised up?
Bill and I emerged from the ambulatory as the light from the high windows illuminated these devotional figures.
More side chapels, on our way out -- satisfying placement!
Fun to find dispirit elements abutting so charmingly. At first we thought the central temple was on fire
but a closer look reveals a book bound in pink on a pink cushion. Philip Guston pinks.
Joseph and an ox at the Nativity share a mood.
On our way out, these church ladies called out to us. They had prayer cards for sale. I found some for St. Anthony, a saint from my childhood. These I bought.

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