On the Island of Procida

Last week John and I took a morning ferry from Naples to the lovely island of Procida (the locals say "PRO-she-duh").

John and I were excited to see our destination appear in the near distance.

When we arrived the landing ramp fell forward on these chains with a thump and we got our first glimpse of the colours of Procida.

Our ferry would continue on to Ischia.

We stepped out onto the waterfront with its harbour of fishing boats.

The architectural jumble of colours and details said summer delight.

We liked the look of the local produce. The restaurant Trattoria Fammivento nearby had been praised in our guidebook. It was noon -- early for lunch in Italy. There was only one other couple seated.

 They were eating bruschetta and it looked so good we sat down and ordered some for ourselves. It was divine!

I was glad that I ordered the spaghetti with clams.

John's hand-made fusilli was dressed with a lemon pesto and tossed with the morning's gamberetti (shrimp). Both plates were delicious with our salads and the icy white wine.

With renewed energy we entered the town along via Vittorio Emmanuele.

and started up the narrow Via Principe Umberto, past intriguing side stairs,

and local altars.

The street really was narrow -- the little trucks and motorcycles on the upward climb left almost no room for pedestrians -- and yet there we were. From a shallow doorway we watched this cyclist rush to beat the delivery truck behind him to the top of the hill!

Side streets along the way offered calm moments and picturesque delights.

Finally we all arrived at the summit -- and the Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie Incoronata

in the Piazza dei Martiri. That's the Sanctuary again in yellow and a view beyond  of the Abbey of Saint Michael the Archangel.

From the other side of the piazza we looked down on the pastel architecture of the Marina Corricella neighbourhood.

We had come to Procida to see if there might be a reason to spend a few weeks here. It looks like a longer stay could be very rewarding.

Randomly we wandered up Via Principessa Margherita and found still more eccentric, colourful buildings

and mysterious alleys.

We came to an abrupt end on the lookout over a secluded beach. Still more to explore!

Rather than descending the steep stairs we retraced our steps

 to the harbour and caught our ferry back to Naples.  

We were treated to a crisp view of Vesuvius as we approached the mainland.  We could easily return to Procida for a longer stay. John and I have long wanted an Italian vacation by the water. This could be the perfect place.

Da Carmine -- Our Favourite Naples Restaurant

Bill and I have been in Naples for three weeks now and we have eaten almost every day at the Antica Trattoria da Carmine.

 Behind this modest facade is a great, family-run restaurant. We discovered it twenty years ago in 1999. I was a new photographer then and passionate about portrait photography. 

 The charismatic Carmine invited me into his kitchen where I got this nice action shot. I made a print of this photograph and presented it to the current staff. Adele, who runs the restaurant, looked at the picture and said, "Papà!"

 Adele told me that the assistant on the left in my old photo was now their chef. Once more I went back into the kitchen where I met Nino Sacco, twenty years older, and his assistant, Ciro.

Adele, the late Carmine's daughter, runs the front of the house with an iron grip. She makes sure everything is running smoothly

and when necessary, will take your order, bus your table and deliver your food.

But on a good day it will be Maurizio, Adele's brother, who takes your order.

Or it may be Eduardo who takes your order and who carries on the family tradition of making all who call feel welcome.  

You will also become familiar with Carmela, who will bring your bread and drinks, deliver your food and clear your table as well as all the other bussing chores.

 We liked the food and service so much that we have been returning regularly and are eating our way through their menu.

We've grown fond of Antonio who drops in midway through lunch every day to sing traditional Napolitano songs in a fine voice.

 We are also fascinated by the other customers and are beginning to recognize the regulars.

OK -- lets have a look at the food that keeps us coming back. I will rarely pass up a risotto. This one is made with shrimp and garnished with rocket greens (rucola). 

All Italian restaurants have an insalata mista (mixed salad). This one has delicious green olives.

I so enjoyed this cacio e pepe ravioli with creamed zucchini flowers and whole peppercorns.

I had it with another basic Italian salad -- rucola greens and tomatoes. 

Bill devoured this swordfish steak

 with a side of stewed friarelli greens (rapini or broccoli rabe)

 Let's end our tour with this orecchiette pasta (little ears) in a pumpkin cream sauce with speck and walnuts. Hungry yet?

Da Carmine is closed today but Adele helped us celebrate Bill's 74th birthday yesterday. She appeared behind Bill's chair with a Baba au Rhum cake with a candle. When she put it on the table the house lights were briefly extinguished and the entire restaurant clapped and sang the Italian Happy Birthday song. 

 A complimentary bottle of prosecco appeared on the table and friendly strangers regaled Bill with cries of auguri (Best wishes!). What a place! Thank you Adele and thank you Da Carmine staff for making Bill's' Neapolitan birthday unforgettable.

And thank you Nino Sacco for all your delicious food. We have one more week in Naples. You will see us soon!

Naples Apartment

Bill and I have rented an apartment on the top floor of this building in the historical centre of Naples.

 Our host, Daniele, was waiting for us in the apartment when we arrived -- bless him! 

 We went out on the small balcony to take in the view -- here of the Corso Umberto I -- one of the main arteries of the city,

At the end of this little vicolo there is a small restaurant and an old fashioned barber shop. We had our first lunch in the restaurant and later got great Napolitano haircuts.

Our apartment is a modern white cube with a ground floor kitchen and couch below a cleverly designed mezzanine with the bed, washroom and wardrobe.

 Let's look around upstairs.

 Very comfortable bed tucked away at one end of the mezzanine. That's the door to the washroom beside it.

At the other end of the mezzanine we have a wardrobe and dresser. Lots of room for our clothes.

 It is fun to look down to the main floor.

 Descending the stairs it is difficult not to sashay.

 When we rent an apartment we always look for a solid table where we can write in our notebooks and use our laptop. Note the good light above the table -- something else we prize.

There is also a good light over the couch. I'm currently halfway through Bram Stoker's Dracula and enjoying it so much I don't want it to end. Bill just finished re-reading Woolf's The Waves and is about to start the new Camilleri.

The couch is also directly across from the balcony with encourages much idle contemplation. This place is perfect!