Wednesday, January 7, 2026

Lunch in Pignasecca Market

Our grocery shopping in Naples often took John and me to the Pignasecca Market,
where we were often charmed by the look and details of the market stalls,
and the abundance of meat and vegetables.
We quickly chose the lady in black on the right as our source for tomatoes and fruit. In this way we became that most Italian thing: her loyal customers.
Our morning's shopping in hand we passed another visually splendid vendor
and his army of acciughe (anchovies) -- any one of which could add depth to someone's lunch or dinner.
We frequented two restaurants in the market. Trattoria Pignasecca sited on a hill in the Spanish quarter was little more than a plastic tent attached to a kitchen. 
The slope of the hill made sitting awkward, but the food was great. Our friend Theresa and I tucked into our pastas.
She led us, another day, to the nearby Trattoria del Sole: a larger venue with an even better menu.
As we entered someone took away this stunning fish fry.
For my starter I ordered these heaven-sent stewed peppers.
and their Pasta Siciliana: roasted eggplant and tomatoes with basil and penne rigate pasta. A keeper!
John had a generous shellfish spaghetti.
We watched a waiter pour a mezzo litro (half litre) carafe of house white wine from a plastic jug.
Two shop-proud butchers posed for John.
Our favourite vendor also posed for him. She told us she hoped we would return soon. May her words come true!

Sunday, January 4, 2026

JR at the Duomo of Naples

Bill and I had a month in Naples this spring. It coincided with photographer JR's "Chronicles of Naples" photo installation on the facade of the Duomo.
On May 1st Bill took a picture of our beloved Duomo.
By May 15th there was hydraulic machinery behind fencing and a small crew attaching photographs to the walls.
Without any information, Bill and I wondered if it could be a JR thing. We knew him from the documentary he made with Agnes Varda in 2017.
On May 16th I noticed a master plan for the facade.
I also saw one of the photographic prints laid on the steps waiting to go up. Was it printed on vinyl?
The lower walls were being reached via scaffolding.
By May 20 the installation was complete.
By now we knew the work was by JR and could see that he had posed groups of locals.
The portraits were life sized.
I liked a pair of dogs placed near a Romanesque lion.
Two more views of the dogs.
Here is the full photograph with the dogs at the bottom. Neapolitans fill a stairway and a balcony above.
We're used to seeing saints and angels on the walls of churches. It was wonderful to see ordinary people in ordinary poses tucked into the arches.
The opening happed on May 21st. I caught the artist on the left in his signature hat and dark glasses.
JR had a book launch for the catalogue at his gallery on Via Toledo. He marked the spot with a photo of tourists.

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Here is a link to JR's website with the full story of the project. Don't miss the searchable and zoomable map of the facade with short audio files from the participants.