Santa Maria della Scala

The church of Santa Maria della Scala is one of the most charming in Trastevere.

The name translates as Saint Mary of the Staircase, but I can't find a reference to a staircase in the literature.

Bill and I think of it as Saint Mary of the Chandeliers.

There is a nice religious feeling here. I always sit awhile.

A look at the Madonna and Child to the left of the altar.

The atmosphere is so quiet that even abstract details have a chance to come forward.

Be sure to look at the floor. It is filled with images carved into the memorial stones.

Every time I visit I try to get a shot of what I think of as a lion skin. That's a shadow from a nearby pew over the face.

On my most recent visit I noticed these memento mori

decorating the edge of a memorial stone.

And these wonderful skulls and crossbones

at the four corners of another stone.

Memento Mori is Latin for "Remember you must die".

These skulls are so casually drawn,

almost contemporary.

We'll end todays visit with these saints

Their eyes heavenward. Memento mori!

Santi XII Apostoli

Most Roman palazzi have a chapel. The Palazzo Colonna has a basilica: Santi XII Apostoli: Twelve Holy Apostles.

It is one of Bill and my favourite basilicas in Rome.

The roomy, covered, portico is filled with sculpture and inscriptions that reward careful looking.

Bill caught me in action here, with my phone, adding another Roman "Q" to my collection.

We have a Toronto friend who likes "Q's. This one is for her. "Questa" means "this".

There was a basilica here in the 6th century. It got a 15th century makeover and then an 18th century makeover, resulting in the Baroque interior we see today.

We felt a strong religious presence in this church. I was drawn to the first chapel on the right,

with its 15th century Madonna and Child by an artist we don't know: Antoniazzo Romano. The gold ground was intended to invoke a Byzantine icon.

Shrines to Santa Rita are always heartfelt. The strong, personal feeling here pulled Bill and me right in.

The tomb of Pope Clement XIV is Canova's first sculpture in Rome and was instant success. 

A figure of Humility with Meekness at her side.

When you visit, be sure to descend into the crypt below the main altar.

It is filled with early Christian frescos. Here we go.

Not a table of apostles, not a table of saints, it is a table of cloth-makers.

A lovely early Christian shepherd

Here he is.

Detail of a 6th century dolphin.

And these fish still look fresh -- after what? 1,500 years?

Marble steps lead, from the crypt, back to the modern world.

Galleria Colonna

The Palazzo Colonna takes up an entire city block in the centre of Rome. The Galleria Colonna is on the east side of the block, the Church of the Santi Apostoli is on the west.

Via della Pilotta runs down the east side of the block dividing the Galleria from its garden.

The 15th century palace was given a Baroque make-over at the beginning of the 18th century.

The Great Hall is a window onto how the super-rich lived in Baroque Rome.

John and I admit that it is a little rich for our taste.

But the details are always interesting. Baroque table with busts before a gilt mirror.

Baroque table with decorative fans.

I was drawn to the superb ceiling frescos. I could look at this picture for hours, but via a hand-held mirror, please, to spare my neck.

18th Century wall frescos -- 

I love them.

John admiring an 18th century suit covered in medals.

His detail of one of the medals.

Table lamp by the stairs that lead to the public washrooms.

The men's toilet is behind this discretely painted door.

The garden is reached by a bridge over Via della Pilotta.

Be sure to take the time to see the garden.

You will find Baroque taste in all its splendor. 

View of the Palazzo Colonna from the top of the stairs.

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Link to official Gallery page.