Tuesday, October 18, 2022

Santa Maria in Aracoeli

The 13th century Santa Maria in Aracoeli is a favourite church for Bill and me. It is on the Capitoline Hill, beside the famous Capitoline Museums.
These stairs were built early in the 14th Century by the survivors of the Black Death, the plague that killed half the population of Europe. Steep and no bannisters. Not for me!
We took the stairs Michelangelo built 200 years later, and ascended grandly to the Campidoglio: the public square he put between the Capitoline museums.
We slipped around the back of the building our our left, the Palazzo Nuovo. These stairs leading up to a side door of the Aracoeli, took us into the church near the altar.
We walked away from the altar, then looked back for this view of with the floor and ceiling of "Saint Mary of the Altar of Heaven".
The Aracoeli has some wonderful chandeliers. Would love to see these lit at night.
Beside the central altar is this side altar.
Midway along the nave we find a large wooden pulpit.
My Catholic upbringing did not bring me anyone delivering a sermon from such a pulpit. The priest must have been quite a sight up there.
Bill showed me this 15th century fresco by Pinturicchio.
At the opposite end of the nave from the altar we found an intriguing complex of tombs.
Here is a closer look at the group on the left. Not sure who is lying on his back. So much to see in this church!
Bill and I are fond of depictions of St George and the Dragon. Bill once painted me a Valentine with these two figures. He made himself the dragon.
Our visit drew to an end as the promise of lunch approached. I decide to document the amazing cosmatesque floor, as I have learned to call it.
Might be able to do something with these details someday.
As I walked around with my nose to the ground, Bill slipped out a nearby door and got this view of the Campidoglio.
He gazed down the famous 14th century stairs for a moment, then we escaped around the back and crossed town for lunch. 

Wednesday, October 5, 2022

Our Roman Day

How wonderful to be back in Rome after three years
and to start the day with a glance over the rooftops.
Laundry day in Rome. The pitiless Roman sun will dry our freshly washed clothes, under the screeches of the local, nesting, seagull families.
Bill and I walked out and were pleased to find all of Rome spread out around us. It is all still here.
We checked the embankment beside the Ponte Sisto for what remained of the William Kentridge 2017 mural: not one trace. 
Fountain in front of Palazzo Medici near the top of the Spanish Steps.
The famous ceiling of Sant'Ignazio seen from the wrong angle to reveal the barrel-shaped vault / Ponte Fabricio: Rome's oldest bridge.
Monday is lentil day at Augusto. We sat ourselves under the umbrellas in the piazza but the staff invited us to sit inside, as it was much cooler within the thick walls.
Famous lentils with sausage, and a side of tomatoes. Simple, / simple.
Another day at Augusto. I'm having pork roast with roasted potatoes. We do visit other days because our beloved Open Door bookstore nearby is closed Mondays.
Sundays usually find us at La Montecarlo Pizzeria. Today instead of my usual Margarita, I'm trying the four cheese pizza. It was good.
Lunch at Gino al Parliamento. Locals paying / Carla and Fabrizio, the owners, serving their loyal clientele,
Contentment in Rome: Da Enzo in Trastevere / Da Tonino on the Governo Vecchio.
After lunch our walk home often brought us by San Luigi dei Francesi and its Carabinieri standing guard. Believe it or not I took these two pictures on different days.
Walking home from our local farmer's market, Bill has a bouquet of peonies. / After a nap, our siesta continues with reading and writing.
Nothing beguiles the unending heat of the day like a drink and a pot of cherries, both icy from the fridge.
This year we had sympatici neighbours in Toronto friends, Lisa and Shelly / Shelly introduced us to the delights of Apple 3-D street view (photo by Lisa Roosen-Runge).
After the siesta all of Rome goes back to work. We emerge from our door on our tourist work to see the chef next door and workmen with their gear back on the job.
Our tourist work often leads to our favourite bar where we routinely order a bottle of prosecco to beguile the hour. Here are Bill and Lisa recounting the adventures of the day.
And here's server Davide helping a customer to her table. She has just hopped off the back of a scooter. The driver joins her after parking.
We love the denizens of this bar.
Walking home takes us by the magnificent Pantheon. It always looks fresh.
Evenings often also take us by Giolitti for gelato / and to Cafe Sant'Eustachio for espresso. This bar is packed with visitors all day but in the evening we get to know the staff.
House style here is "with sugar." Azad smiled when I asked for a "normale" and a "senza normale." / When we told him we were leaving Rome he touched his heart.
At home in Rome at night. Temperature doesn't get much below 28 degrees. What a great time we are having.
I read on the terrace until the light fades. Then I rest my eyes on the rooftops, the same rooftops we looked at this morning. And so to bed.

Roman Mornings

In the morning, Bill and I do our sightseeing.
The mornings were hot this summer. That's me, clinging to the shade, climbing the steps of the Vittoriano.
Relief from the heat within the thick walls of the Capitoline Museum / looking down the steps of Santa Maria in Aracoeli from the top of the Capitoline Hill.
Looking up the pitiless stairs of the Aracoeli / Testing my phone camera on Bernini's Bridge of Angels by putting the sun behind the statue's head.
Must ask at this shop what DOP means. / Must be Laika, the first dog in space.
Workers in white. "Lares", on the back of the t-shirt refers to the ancient Roman household gods. How cool it that? / Army of nurses in this year's Festa della Republica parade
Nice tank from the Festa della Republica  / We think capercaillie feathers on the helmets.
Army of tourists on Via Condotti. / Locals on Via del Corso. 
Detail of the famous Turtle Fountain in the Jewish Ghetto. / The basket has a watermelon, greens and artichokes.
Carabinieri station between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon / A step away from Piazza Navona on our way to the lively Via dei Coronari. 
Juno fountain on the corner of the Quattro Fontane (Four Fountains) on the Quirinal Hill / Entrance to Borromini's must see San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane.
Courtyard of Borromini's San Ivo della Sapienza / and the cupola within. Church open from 9 to 12 every Sunday.
Sign on the side wall of Sant'Andrea della Valle / Vaulted ceiling of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva
View of the altar from the nun's choir in Santa Cecilia in Trastevere / On the ground floor in one of those side aisles in S Cecilia -- view toward the gift shop.
Priest in San Andrea delle Valle / Saint Anthony and the Christ child seem to be discussing him but they are across the river in the church of San Crisogono.
Visitors to Rome have been lining up to look at Caravaggio's Calling of Matthew / Inspiration of Matthew in the church of San Luigi dei Francesi since 1600.
Annibale Carracci's "The Bean Eater" (c 1584) in Galleria Colonna. / Caravaggio's "Judith Beheading Holofernes" (1599) in the Barberini.
Guillaume and Paulo of Spazio Nuovo showing us a work by Andrea Poerio Piterà / Tomatoes with Riccardo Ajossa and some of his new work (photo by Guillaume Maitre)
Baths of Diocletian / Sculpture by Nicola Verlato in "Hostia" a Pasolini Centenary show.
River god detail in Bernini's famous Four Rivers fountain in Piazza Navona / Hair and beard in the style of the Emperor Hadrian, c 130 AD, Museum of Rome in Palazzo Massimo.
Trastevere streets: face of Hedy Lamar on the left.
Trastevere detail
Roman workshops: Trastevere / Parione
Vintage clothing store on our beloved Governo Vecchio. 
Butcher at the Governo Vecchio Carrefour Express / Workman near the Frutteria Antica delle Coppelle market.
And did we mention the hot, hot heat? Romans we met were not happy with it. Except our server on Governo Vecchio who said, "I love the heat."